BackGround Information...
Bettas, also known as Betta splendens, originate in tropical areas of Asia. They are from hot & humid climates and therefore temperature is one big part
of their well being. It is often said that bettas live in puddles, that "fact" is actually false. Bettas jump from puddle to puddle until they reach a larger
body of water. They are often found in rice paddies that stretch on for MILES. To learn more about that mythbuster, go here: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=8923
It is common knowledge that two male bettas cannot live in the same tank, or they will fight until death. MALES AND FEMALES CANNOT LIVE TOGETHER. A male and female may live together peacefully for some time, but I have talked to people that had them together for 1 year and then one day he killed her. Professional breeders only keep the male and female together to breed and then they are seperated. Female bettas can live together in groups of 4 or more, BUT, sometimes individual females are too agressive for this type of life style. Having multiple females together in groups less than 4 will result in death. Please do research if you are considering this, and quarantine each female for two weeks to prevent an outbreak of illness/disease EVEN IF THE FEMALES LOOK HEALTHY. Females living together is referred to as a sorority and your tank must be cycled. To read up on sororities, go here: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=29402
. RULE #1 to Betta keeping: DO NOT TAKE PET STORE ADVICE. Most of the advice a pet store employee will give you is false! They are not educated on proper betta care, and give people wrong advice.
of their well being. It is often said that bettas live in puddles, that "fact" is actually false. Bettas jump from puddle to puddle until they reach a larger
body of water. They are often found in rice paddies that stretch on for MILES. To learn more about that mythbuster, go here: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=8923
It is common knowledge that two male bettas cannot live in the same tank, or they will fight until death. MALES AND FEMALES CANNOT LIVE TOGETHER. A male and female may live together peacefully for some time, but I have talked to people that had them together for 1 year and then one day he killed her. Professional breeders only keep the male and female together to breed and then they are seperated. Female bettas can live together in groups of 4 or more, BUT, sometimes individual females are too agressive for this type of life style. Having multiple females together in groups less than 4 will result in death. Please do research if you are considering this, and quarantine each female for two weeks to prevent an outbreak of illness/disease EVEN IF THE FEMALES LOOK HEALTHY. Females living together is referred to as a sorority and your tank must be cycled. To read up on sororities, go here: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=29402
. RULE #1 to Betta keeping: DO NOT TAKE PET STORE ADVICE. Most of the advice a pet store employee will give you is false! They are not educated on proper betta care, and give people wrong advice.
What you will need for your betta...
- Tank. Everyone has their own opinion on the size your betta's tank, but most avid betta keepers reccomend a size of 2.5 gallons or more. This gives the betta
a decent amount of room to swim and is fairly easy to maintain properly when it comes to water changes. But, the bigger the tank, the better. I do not reccomend bowls or tanks without covers, bettas are known to jump out.
-Heater. Bettas originate in hot & humid areas. They prefer temperatures around 78-80 degrees farenheit. I reccomend getting an adjustable heater that has a thermostat, that way the heater can be set by you and will not allow the tank to over heat or under heat.
-Filter. Filters are not absolutely neccessary but are highly reccomended. Having a filter makes the tank look cleaner and prevents any sort of protein film from your betta's food from forming on the surface. The filter I have is completely silent when the tank is filled appropriately. If your filter intake is too strong, you can wrap pantyhose around it or put a piece of aquarium foam/sponge in it. You can baffle your filter output to lessen the current it creates like shown here: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=30139
- Light. Although it is not absolutely neccessary to have a light in your betta's tank, it is appreciated for lives plants and to stimulate day & night. It is reccomended to leave the light on during the day and off at night, that way the betta can rest in the dark. Most people leave their tank light on for anywhere from 6 to 10 hours.
-Water conditioner. One of the most important parts of a fish tank is, well, water! Water from your tap contains chlorine & chemicals that will kill your betta. By using water conditioner, the chlorine & harmful metals are removed! I reccomend Sea Chem Prime water conditioner. Spring/Distilled/Bottled water doesnt contain beneficial minerals that tap water has. Those minerals are something very healthy for your betta, therefore it is best to take the safer, cheaper route by using conditioned tap water.
-Hiding Spots/decor. Places to hide, such as plants or caves make a betta feel secure. Make sure that any decor or caves you have are not sharp or able to rip your betta's delicate fins. Live plants and silk plants are reccomended for your tank. Most plastic plants will rip a betta's fins, therefore they are not reccomended.
-Thermometer. A thermometer will help you ensure that your heater is working properly.
-Access To air. Bettas have what is called a labyrinth organ. It is similar to a lung, and allows bettas to breathe at the surface without oxygenated water. For this reason, you should always make sure there is room between your tank hood & the water's surface. If your betta cannot breathe at the surface, it will literally drown.
a decent amount of room to swim and is fairly easy to maintain properly when it comes to water changes. But, the bigger the tank, the better. I do not reccomend bowls or tanks without covers, bettas are known to jump out.
-Heater. Bettas originate in hot & humid areas. They prefer temperatures around 78-80 degrees farenheit. I reccomend getting an adjustable heater that has a thermostat, that way the heater can be set by you and will not allow the tank to over heat or under heat.
-Filter. Filters are not absolutely neccessary but are highly reccomended. Having a filter makes the tank look cleaner and prevents any sort of protein film from your betta's food from forming on the surface. The filter I have is completely silent when the tank is filled appropriately. If your filter intake is too strong, you can wrap pantyhose around it or put a piece of aquarium foam/sponge in it. You can baffle your filter output to lessen the current it creates like shown here: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=30139
- Light. Although it is not absolutely neccessary to have a light in your betta's tank, it is appreciated for lives plants and to stimulate day & night. It is reccomended to leave the light on during the day and off at night, that way the betta can rest in the dark. Most people leave their tank light on for anywhere from 6 to 10 hours.
-Water conditioner. One of the most important parts of a fish tank is, well, water! Water from your tap contains chlorine & chemicals that will kill your betta. By using water conditioner, the chlorine & harmful metals are removed! I reccomend Sea Chem Prime water conditioner. Spring/Distilled/Bottled water doesnt contain beneficial minerals that tap water has. Those minerals are something very healthy for your betta, therefore it is best to take the safer, cheaper route by using conditioned tap water.
-Hiding Spots/decor. Places to hide, such as plants or caves make a betta feel secure. Make sure that any decor or caves you have are not sharp or able to rip your betta's delicate fins. Live plants and silk plants are reccomended for your tank. Most plastic plants will rip a betta's fins, therefore they are not reccomended.
-Thermometer. A thermometer will help you ensure that your heater is working properly.
-Access To air. Bettas have what is called a labyrinth organ. It is similar to a lung, and allows bettas to breathe at the surface without oxygenated water. For this reason, you should always make sure there is room between your tank hood & the water's surface. If your betta cannot breathe at the surface, it will literally drown.
Water Changes
Water changes depend on the size of your tank and whether or not it is cycled. Tanks that are not cycled will need more frequent, larger water changes.
Water needs changed even if it looks clean. Fish waste & food create ammonia, which is invisible & toxic. Therefore, use the guide below. Note that this guide is meant for tanks containing 1 betta and your individual tank may require more frequent changes if your water parameters suggest so. It takes about 6-8 weeks to cycle your tank. Please visit these links to read up on how to cycle your tank..
Cycling with a betta IN your tank: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=107771
Cycling without fish: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=47838
Water Change Guide..
Some people choose not to cycle their tank. Water changes for un-cycled tanks that will not be cycled:
Tanks 6 gallons or less: 2 water changes per week- 1 50% change, 1 100% change
Tanks 7-10 gallons: 1 water change per week. Alternate amounts every other week. For example, do a 50% change on week one, then a 100% change on week two, then a 50% change on week three, and continue the pattern..
Water changes for completely cycled tanks... At least one 30% water change per week. A cycled tank should never have a 100% change done. Also, never rinse your filter cartridge in tap water and never replace the cartridge. Always rinse it off in a bucket of used tank water. If it is rinsed in tap water, your beneficial bacteria will be lost and your tank will no longer be cycled.
Water needs changed even if it looks clean. Fish waste & food create ammonia, which is invisible & toxic. Therefore, use the guide below. Note that this guide is meant for tanks containing 1 betta and your individual tank may require more frequent changes if your water parameters suggest so. It takes about 6-8 weeks to cycle your tank. Please visit these links to read up on how to cycle your tank..
Cycling with a betta IN your tank: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=107771
Cycling without fish: http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=47838
Water Change Guide..
Some people choose not to cycle their tank. Water changes for un-cycled tanks that will not be cycled:
Tanks 6 gallons or less: 2 water changes per week- 1 50% change, 1 100% change
Tanks 7-10 gallons: 1 water change per week. Alternate amounts every other week. For example, do a 50% change on week one, then a 100% change on week two, then a 50% change on week three, and continue the pattern..
Water changes for completely cycled tanks... At least one 30% water change per week. A cycled tank should never have a 100% change done. Also, never rinse your filter cartridge in tap water and never replace the cartridge. Always rinse it off in a bucket of used tank water. If it is rinsed in tap water, your beneficial bacteria will be lost and your tank will no longer be cycled.